Travels By Train

Well, it's been a few days since our last update, yet we have travelled a great distance. Shimla was fab, a slice of old England in the middle of Indian hills. Sad to say though that the imodium had an airing before our depature - maybe a little too much birthday indulgence!

We left Shimla a couple of days after my birthday and headed of the holy town of Varanasi, on the Ganges. The journey to Shimla seemed nothing in comparison. We were trapped in a cabin with 6 other adults, 2 toddlers, a newborn baby and a tricycle for 26 hours. It was like something out of another world!

Varnasi in itself was an incredible experience, like something neither of us had ever experienced. We spent the evening by the riverside, mostly watching a massive hindu prayer time, a sense enriched hour, full of candles, smoke, bells, flowers and singing.

The following morning we visited the same part of the river at dawn, to see the sun rise. The ghats were full of people, washing clothes, themselves and their teeth with the incredibly dirty water. We also saw one of the burning ghats, where people are cremated in view of the river - something that many aspire to. No one was burning when we were there - didn't know whether to be relieved or disappointed.

We are now in Bombay/Mumbai, the train journey was another epic one - about 30 hours. A retired gentleman, however, took us under his wing, answered many of our questions and introduced us to delicious food we hadn't discovered, all of which made the journey pass more quickly.

As soon as we left the train, Ed dragged me to a local park, where he managed to join in with the training session of a local cricket team - something he's been dying to do since we arrived in India.

Out to enjoy a beer now - have only had about 3 pints since arriving, must be a personal best!

Take care xxx

VIEW FROM OUR HOTEL ROOM

Happy in the Himalayas

Since our last post we have been very busy. We have made a visit to Agra and went to the Taj Mahal, which was every bit as spectacular as everyone says. It was a shame that some of the experience was spoilt by numerous people wanting to sell us a variety of randomn souveniers.

After Agra we went back to Delhi for the night, visited a couple of markets (not the ones with the shootings - if you've heard of these back home) and ate yet more Thali. This continues to be delicious and kind to our stomachs!

On Thursday, we started an epic train journey to Shimla, a town on the foothills of the Himalayas. The journey took 12 hours in total. The first part of the journey was great, comfy seats, free newsaper, water and breakfast. The 2nd half wasn't so great (7 hours of) although the views were absolutely breathtaking, travelling up a tiny rail track to our destination over 2000m above sea level.

Shimla is beautiful and a lovely break from the pestering of many of the towns we have visited. It is here that Rella is celebrating her birthday, in a hotel room with a balcony looking onto an endless view of foresty hills (the damp on the walls, floor, bed, pillows, sheets and ceiling are another story!).

Our driver led tour has now finished and although we enjoyed it immensly, we are happy to be doing our own thing and moving at our own pace (the driver turned out to be a bit of a sight seeing bully, which means we have seen more than enough forts and palaces for the time being!).

Rella has added the first travelling charm to her bracelet - a camel. A trip we will remember forever!

Hope you are all well and happy. xx

A Guide to Driving in India

1. Use of the Horn.
The horn should be used as frequently as possible, and in most cases used instead of the brake.

2. Wingmirrors.
These unnecessary 'extras' just add width to the car, increasing risk of damage whilst overtaking. Therefore, either fold inwards or, preferably remove entirely.

3. Passangers.
Where there is a space bigger than a 1 rupee coin there is space for someone to sit / perch. There are of course some limitations with common sense enforced. These are as follows:

Motorbike / Scooter: 4 (plus one small child)
Rickshaw: 5 adults / 9 children, plus school rucksacks.
Car: 4 in front and 5 in back seats (again multiple small children in addition)
Jeep: As car, but don't forget the roof!
52 Seater Bus: 90+ - Has a big roof!

4. Seat Belts:
For use in built up areas only when travelling less than 20Kms/hr. When travelling at speeds in excess of 60Kms/hr, take off to allow better movement within the seat.

5. Turning Right:
At all costs do not slow down. Doing so only allows other vehicles to overtake you.

6. Flashing Lights:
Solely for use when overtaking or to signal the oncoming vehicle on your side of the road that you are on a collision course with. Strict rules of 'brightest lights has right of way' applies.

7. Vehicle 'Caste' System:
Similar to Indian social classes, vehicles have them too. This is the order of status:

1. Cow - It's holy so move around it at all costs.
2. Lorries / Buses - they're big so move out of their way.
3. Cars - all comes down to how big your nuts are, but they all fall into this category.
4. Scooters - Held with little respect on the road
5. Bicycles - even less
6. Pedestrians - lowest of the low.

8. Overtaking:
Don't let oncoming vehicles put you off apply hierarchy above, put your foot down, and don't forget to use horn, and flash lights, a lot.

9. Indicators:
Surplus to requirements.

10. Driving on Left:
This is the correct side of the road to drive on, however use as much of the road as necessary, and don't forget the racing line.

11. Cows / Dogs:
Cows are holy, dogs are not.

12. Gear Changes:
Once in 5th Gear try to stay there, especially when overtaking after appliying brakes (assuming horn has failed).

13. Tailgating:
This is a suprisingly efficient and effective method of saving petrol, and is widely used across India - do your bit for the environment.

Comments

We have switched (we think) the comments back on, so please feel free to leave your messages.

In Udaipur today, Pushkar tomorrow...lots to see, many friendly people. The thali is lush!

ED'S CAMEL AFTER LONG AND TIRING RIDE!

The million star hotel

Yesterday afternoon we took a trip into the Thar desert from Jaisalmer on the search of our promised camel trek. We travelled for quite a way and then reached our camels. We then proceeded to trek into the desert where we rested on sand dunes whilst watching the sunset. The trip however, did not stop there, we got back on the camels and headed further into the dunes. Our camel ride stopped in a clearing where we sat around a camp fire listening to the sounds of the camel men talking and laughing. Our dinner soon arrived by camel - more thali. At about 9pm we were shown to our 'rooms', a double bed laid out under the stars -amazing!!!

Today we travelled to Jodhpur, tomorrow we will be in Udaipur, followed by Pushkar, after that Jaipur, then Agra, back to Delhi, then a train to Shimla, three days later we will be in Varanasi and finally a 25 hour train journey to Mumbai (Bombay). That then marks the end of the tour of plenty!

Thank you for all of your emails it is lovey to hear from you all. We have sad news though, Deano the dog has been abducted and can't report on his adventure.

Lots of love xxx

Tour of plenty

It seems that the tour operator was telling the truth when he said that we would have a good time. We have travelled a long, long way and seen some amazing sights. Some perhaps that you wouldn't want to see!

Yesterday we were in a small town called Mandawa (in Rajasthan) where we slept in the most amazing bed - about 8ft square. Our room was in a havali (old building) and opened out onto a small courtyard with pretty paintings. Today we moved a further 170km (ish) west and are staying in another good hotel - it seems that the tour guy didn't listen to us when we said we wanted to travel budget style. We are enjoying it though!

This afternoon we visited a temple not far from here where rats roam freely (everywhere!) and if they scamper across your feet you are blessed with good luck. Ed was not impressed, even less so when he realised that it was an actual temple and he was expected to take his shoes off! We have visited a variety of different places that have enlightened us and allowed us to see further into the Indian culture. I was particularly moved and upset by a 'begging' family (father, mother, child of 5 and small baby) who performed to us whilst we were eating last night. It will leave a lasting impression of how lucky we all actually are.

The roads are amazing and needless to say Ed's overtaking no longer scares me!

Hope you are all well - Ed's email is now back in working order and dinothedog.blogspot.com is just overcoming his jet lag and will be reporting his adventures soon.

xxx

With love from Delhi

It took some time but finally we are here. The flight went without a hitch, Virgin were lovely but sadly no upgrade - don't suppose you can have it all. We arrived in Inida at about 11:00am local time and spent the next two hours trying to get to our hotel without being conned. Ed was absolutely brilliant and ensured that we avoided the local tourist scams (well maybe not all of them).

Delhi is an incredible city with an amazing amount of diversity. It can't be many places where you see an ox, a van and a human being all dragging/pulling the same weight. Cycling to work doesn't seem such a big deal anymore.

Whilst trying to buy a train ticket this morning we landed on the door step of a government tourist guide business and have signed up for a tailor made itenary for the next 20 days. They have been absolutely brilliant we have seen all the sights, visited mosques, temples and markets and all with our own driver. Life in India feels better for it. They even helped us sort our mobile out. Number for those of you who want it is; 00919871375605

We will keep you up to date with our trip, not much to report now other than the fact that Ed's email isn't working so we will both be using annarella.small@btinternet.com.

Love to you all

Rella and Ed xx

Two days to go...missing you all already!