Tastes like Chicken

Well doesn't everything?? Vietnam, as Cambodia, and Thailand for that matter enjoy, nay relish what we shall call 'exotic meats'.

Today I sampled a freshly fried grass hopper sprayed with fish sauce, and it tasted... not like chicken. Twas crunchy and, well slightly fishy. I've developed some what of an addiction to the fish sauce over recent weeks. You can't beat a good soaking over an omlette at breakfast.

A couple of days ago on our tour of the Mekong Delta, Rella forgot to mention (probably put to the back of her memory) the meat stalls on the side of the road. One little cracker was selling some kind of animal mush, eyeballs and all. They really do stand out on a bright day amongst the darkness of the oh so rich meat!

As we are in Hanoi, it seems rude not to venture to the 'dog street mile'. However as it is bad luck in Vietnam to eat little fido in the first half of the lunar month, we'll not venture there until our return from Ha Long Bay... Not to sample the delicacy you understand but to soak up the atmosphere (and not the blood on our only pair of shoes / flip flops).

Where's Teddy Gone?

Hoi An

If you ever think of visiting Vietnam, you've got to visit this place.

After an overnight train ride we arrived in the quiet town, Hoi An, close to the beach and river with houses of French colonial charm. Also a clothes paradise, I did not realise that places like this actually existed! The main high street was lined with tailors willing to make you anything within 24 hours. Needless to say, we got carried away and completely blew our South East Asia budget in the space of a day.

Ed, not satisfied with his straight forward, black pinstripe decided to try styling his own suit for a mere $40. Never ever let a man go to the tailors on his own!

Wanting to continue the trend we booked ourselves on to another cooking course, this time learning how to make spring rolls, sweet and sour squid and aubergine hot pot. All very tasty. To top off a fun day in an amazing location we were taught how to make a small amount of food decoration...I don't think I did too badly.

We loved it here and would definitely recommend it...just bring an empty suitcase and a charged up credit card!

We are in Hanoi now and off to Ha Long Bay tomorrow.

Saigon

After an uneventful, but long journey we arrived in Saigon, decided to treat ourselves and booked into a hotel with air con, cable tv, dvd player and breakfast included...lush! We quickly got on to the streets and realised why the lonely planet actually told you how to cross the road here. Step of the curb, walk slowly and let the traffic move around you...ahhhh...closing your eyes is optional!

The next day we did a self guided walking tour around the city, many museums to see including the War Reminents Museum - the last few days seem to have been filled with learning about great unhappiness had by many people not so long ago. Very upsetting.

Having had our fill of Saigon we decided to do something a little more frivolous and headed for a day tour of the Mekong Delta. The area itself was really beautiful, the tour a little less so, as we ended up on a mass tourist expedition trying exotic fruit such as pineapple...not that impressed.

The day, however, ended well with a stunning boat ride home. The views of river life around Vietnam were sensational and the beer was cheap too!

View from the boat

Sunset from the boat

Ed taking advantage of the facilities!

We were told that the boat journey would take approximately 2 1/2 hours, it was actually 5+, having been without food for at least two hours Ed tried ordering food on our small boat. When he was told that this would not be possible he starting gnawing on the above bar and started begging in the little Vietnamese he has learnt...it worked. 1 hour later a small plate of spring rolls and a pork (?) kebab arrived to put him out of his misery.

The Fecking Blogsite is Playing Up

Final couple of photos we couldn't put on the last entry...

The only road to the Killing Fields (we took our tumble just before this)

View from our Guesthouse

Fishing at Sunset

Tuk Tuk Turnover

Just a little story before we start. We are in Vietnam, but PC's in Cambodia were rubbish. It's over 30 degrees outside and we are on a self guided walking tour of Saigon. We've stumbled across a posh hotel with internet access free for guests, with air con - we're not guests but they think we are, and it has all programmes needed to get photos shrunk for the blog etc... So, we are taking liberties whilst we can!

We took a bus from Battenbang to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. On the way, by public bus, we nearly had a head on collision with a big land rover. The owner of which decided to pull a gun on our driver. Still there was no damage so after exchanging pleasantries, on we went.

On arriving in Phnom Penh we got a tuk tuk to see the main museum from the civil war with the Khymer Rouge. A high school turned into a prison and torture centre for people who didn't follow the Khymer Rouge way of thinking. From here thousands were sent to their deaths at the killing fields nearby. The small cells were filled with men, women and children, photos of whom were put up for all to see. It was all very sad and disturbing (this went on between 1975 and 1979) and showed a dark side to the happy country we were now visiting.

The next day we completed the 'story' and headed again by Tuk Tuk to the Killing fields 17km away. The roads on the way were terrible, even by Cambodian standards, and at one stage we found ourselves 90 degrees from upright!! All unscathed we picked the machine back up and headed off.

The killing fields were eerily calm and tranquil. Walking around the dug up mass graves you can still see the reminents of rags and bones. The bit that will stick with us the most were two trees, one for bludgeoning children against and another for a speaker system to drown out the screams of the dying and those standing by. Apparently locals were unaware of the killing fields existence, though if they did they would have probably been too scared to do anything about it.

Our stay in Phnom Penh was concluded by a cultural dance performance by Cambodian Light Children Association - Street children and orphans from a training centre. They sang and danced along with the playing of traditional instruments. Bonus - it was free and we got free spring rolls!! (says Ed)

Photos from Battenbang, Cambodia

These are some snaps we tried to put in earlier blog updates, but failed...

River Village

Kids Happy with Life

Our Guesthouse

Working on the River

Slugs, Snails and Puppy Dog Tails... Shopping for Cooking Class

Catfish Curry twas Yummy

He's a cooool Rider

Lots of love from Egg and Roly (our Cambodian pronounced names)

Catfish curry and Bamboo train

After a cookery lesson at 'Smokin' Pot' restaurant/cookery school we are now apt at cooking catfish curry (amok), beef stirfry and a sour soup, all Cambodia style. The market we visited to fetch the ingredients was something else, strung out frogs, chicken entrail stalls and plucked chicks. Nice. In fact we bought our catfish when it was still alive. At least we knew it was fresh!

Battanbang, although Cambodia's second largest town, had little to do, so we hired a couple of drivers and motorbikes and headed out into the countryside (Cambodia doesn't do helmets - sorry mums!). After an exhausting climb to the top of a nearby 'mountain' (limestone outcrop) we reached the killing cave, where the Khmer Rouge used to throw people to their death, after slitting their throats. There were some bones in a cage, most have been stolen by tourists to take home as souvenirs!

Hot and sweaty we climbed back on the bikes and took the B roads (oh my god!) to the bamboo train (oh my god!!!!). Not as frightening as we were promised but the whole day seemed to be filled with a death wish.

Building the Train

On Your Marks...

Get Set...

Go!!!

Cambodiaaarrgh

Our journey began at 4:30am from Bangkok railway station. After a train ride filled with an impromptued telephone bank English lesson, a woman carrying a watermelon as a baby, and 5 different sleeping positions on wooden seat, a share lorry, a walk, two minibus rides, and a motor tuk tuk (Rella thinks this sentence is too long - well what about the f@cking journey!) we arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia at 7pm. The road from the Thai border to Siem Reap is really, really bad. Kind of a track and also a bit worse than that with 2 foot pot holes frequently dotted across the road.

The next day we slept until gone midday and then headed for a land mine museum. It really was an informative and emotional place to visit. Land mines are still everywhere in Cambodia - there are still thought to be over 6 million undiscovered. The people working at the museum are all victims of landmines, in otherwords they are missing limbs or have been blinded by shrapnel blasts. Thankfully most of these have received funding for their future education from visiting tourists.

Day 2 - Our tuk tuk motor driver from the previous day came to meet us at our guest house the following morning a 5am where we headed to the legendary Angkor Wat for dawn. As well as a thunderous dawn chorus performance from the arse warblers (not totally got rid of the remnents from the crab curry in Bangkok!) there were also some memorable views...

View of Anchor Wat at Dawn

We then spent the morning and into the afternoon visiting numerous temples and sights in the area. One of them was part of the set in Tomb Raider and Two Brothers...

Trees grow over and through the stonework

By about two we were knackered so drives took us back to our guest house. It cost us $13 from sunrise to sunset for the two of us, and although we cut the day short, it was still great value.

Today we ventured deeper into Cambodia to a town called Battenbang. We could have spent about 3 hours on a bus to get here, but Rella was adament that we made the 6 hour journey by boat instead. We were picked up late by the minibus to the 'port' so the only room left of the 25 seater boat was the roof, along with 23 others!! Loads of people live along the vast river systems and they all seem very happy with life. Have some photos here but blog site is playing up so it will have to wait.

Hairy

Thanks to all of you who replied to our request about Ed's look. Surprisingly it was not me who wanted your advice and help, but him. I am happy with the hair, also means that maybe he won't look so closely at my own look of gorgeous roots and hairy eybrows.

He decided to get a small haircut and keep the beard. We went to a local hairdressers where the proceeded to 'Thai' him. I have never found it so difficult to keep a straight face as when I heard the hairdryer start and him emerge with what can only be described as a 'bouffant'. Sadly I have no pictures to show. He wouldn't let me take any and instead got be to correct their errors with a pair of nail scissors. He should have stuck with it

Bangkok

We have spent the last few days catching the sights of Bangkok that we didn't manage to fit in last time. This involved a morning at the touristy floating market and another seeing the emerald Buddah.

Having been here before, we couldn't resist checking out some of the places we visited previously. On our first night we visited 'My House' guesthouse and repeated our first night in Thailand of 5 years ago. Green curry in same restaurant, at the same table and a bucket of Samsong special (for Ed at any rate) - rum, redbull and coke.

We have continued to spend our time here as we did before, boozing a little too much. Ed as a result of his "best meal yet" - crab curry street food at 1am this morning, after dancing in a local Thai club and supping further spirit buckets, is now laid up in bed with stomach cramps. What can you do? We were supposed to head for Cambodia at 5am tomorrow but am guessing that we're not moving anywhere fast! Going to head back now and load him up up with further rehydration sachets and plenty of water.

Thai Green Curry

Nursing our heads from the night before Ed and I jumped into the van of a local cooking course. We visited the local market and then headed for the teacher's beautiful teak house just outside of Hua Hin. We spent the day learning how to make curry paste, cook Thai soup and other Thai dishes. We look forward to cooking these for you on our return but until then thought you might enjoy these ravishing pictures!

Happy New Year!

Our trip to Hua Hin conviniently coincided with the end of the Buddhist year, which meant our stay was filled with celebration. New year's eve began with a parade of grandeur, colour and Thai beauty through the centre of the town. This was followed by everyone heading to the beach where they sent floats of flowers, candles and incense with wishes and resolutions for the coming year. Not wanting to miss out, Ed and I purchased a beautiful float and headed for the sea. What was an act of tourism for us soon became one of spiritulatlity (for me anyway - Ed was more concerned with where his next piece of fried chicken was coming from...this is becoming a worrying obsession!) as I waded into the water making wishes for our continuing journey and for our friends and family at home.

HAPPY

NEW YEAR !

The beach was awash with colour and the flickering of candle light, I felt really lucky to have been a part of it.

This moment of calm was soon replaced with one of frivolity and indulgence as we headed for a seafood feast, perched on the edge of a stilted restaurant looking out to sea. I could get used to this travelling lark!

Hua hin

We are currently resting our bruised arses in Hua hin, a resort on the east coast of Thailand - the 12 hour overnight train journey on barely cushioned seats left a lot to be desired. The weather is fine and the beach packed.

Hua hin is packed with tourists having a good time. Ed is however, is finding the whole place rather frightening, particularly at night time when walking past the busy(ish) bars. This place definitely caters for the 'sex tourist'!

It is the equivalent of the buddhist New Year today, so we are off to enlighten ourselves with a little culture and no doubt join in with the celebrations.

Hope all is good with you. xxx

Hat Yai

After a short ferry trip we arrived in Thailand, our fourth country in two months. We decided to head for Hat Yai a 'party' town on the Malaysian border. To be honest, there wasn't much there and we had almost given up on finding the illusive nightlife we had heard about.

On our last night, however, we wandered in to a 'saloon' bar and found the locals hitting the beer heavily and listening to a Thai band crooning to a variety of western style hits. After a couple of jugs Ed was up dancing with the waiter (must say that the dancing left a little to be desired and the bent over knee arse whipping perhaps unnecessary, but then I guess most of you have had the privalidge of seeing Ed dance!) whilst I was clapped and sang along. It was a good night!

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West Coast Malaysia

After an overnight bus, and then a quick ferry ride we arrived in Penang, Pearl of the Orient. We set up camp in a 24hr bar with rooms attached - classy place, you could rent rooms for 2hrs. It was opposite 'Love Lane' which was scattered with ladies of the night, some with dubious adam's apples!

A couple of days of good food, a failed attempt at DIY sightseeing on the 'effcient and easy to navigate' public transport, and shopping in air con malls, ideal stopping point between beaches.

One Temple found (about 200m walk - no bus needed!)

Langkawi - Malay for reddish brown eagle

Langkawi was our next stop, another island, pretty commercial and resorty, but still very beautiful. We stayed here for 3 nights, where we spent most of our time sunbathing, and swimming. We also had a day on a scooter exploring the island. The lonely planet put this island down as it is mostly resorts, what it doesn't tell you is that because it is a duty free island, the beer is just over 20p a can compared to 2 quid on the mainland / Penang, so we didn't drink much until here. We filled our boots!

... Supping Suds ...

... At Sunset

Photo Update - Small Island, Malaysia

Our Humble Abode

Cove of Kecil Island, Perinthians, Malaysia

"You wanna fight, fight me"... Lunch

"You want taxi?"

Singapore Photo Update

Pink Dolphins on Sentosa Island, Singapore

Rella supping on a Singapore Sling - don't worry she had a quick dialysis session afterwards for a good clearout!

Night View from our Hostel in Singapore - ah the peace and quiet.

Orchids in the Orchid Garden of Singapore's botanical garden

View of Singapore from the 'Bumboat'