Wishing you a Merry Christmas

Unbelievably another year has past and we are spending a further Christmas far away from home. The sun is shining...well sometimes and there are hardly any decorations about. It doesn't really feel like Christmas. We hope that you all enjoy the much needed break - if Christmas can ever provide that and that you have a wonderful New Year. xxx

Mt Maunganui

A mere two hours drive and we were in Mt Maunganui, a town on the eastern coast. Due to coincidence Pikey's aunt, uncle and cousins were also in town and kept us well entertained and fed! After a rainy night at the campsite be proved that we could be as kiwi as the next person by climbing the mount (Ed ran it, what a fool!), swimming in the sea and going surfing all before lunch!

The O'Briens then extended their generosity by offering us their home, on the north shores of Auckland, for a couple of days to recharge. What a treat! As you have probably figured this would be the first time we slept in a bed for about four weeks and I can not even begin to explain how wonderful it felt.

Look down - added in a couple of photos from the dolphins as well as this new post...

North Island Bound

We are now in the North Island, and we've been pretty busy in the 4 or 5 days that we've been here.

First stop was Wellington, the capital city. It's pretty small, but a really nice place. Our plan for NZ has been to not spend too much time in the cities but to explore the outdoors and get back to one with nature - or some other hippie shite like that anyway.

However, needs must and we needed to get our Indonesian visas sorted for the new year. They said it would take 3 days if they were busy, I asked if they were busy and we really needed for the same day. We had them by 4pm that day.

Next stop was Hawkes Bay for some more wine tasting. We went to a lovely small vineyard and supped some wines and had a deli lunch in the veranda of the winery.

It was then on to Gisbourne and surfing time. Our first venture back on boards since our 5 day surf safari. We camped on the beach, but prior to sleeping, the pair of us got creative with the drift wood on the beach:

We looked for a pub but couldn't find one, so we made our own!

Our view from the car at nightfall

Next day there was a lovely little swell coming into the bay so we got our wetsuits and boards hired and spent most of the day surfing. We've both improved massively and 'were ripping it up on some sick waves... dude'.

I'd been on this one for a far while (honestly)

After a day's surfing we travelled inland to Roturua to thermal springs land and the smell of rotten eggs (from the sulphur). The following day we visited a Kiwi bird sanctuary, then visited a volcanic buried village (yawn).

Some stuffed Kiwi birds (couldn't take photos in the nocturnal walkthrough)

In the evening we went to a traditional Maori cultural evening, where I was chief Ted (Rella being Miss Chief), and a good filling of Hangi, meats and veggies cooked in an earth pit oven. I thought it might be a bit touristy and tacky, but it was a really enlightening experience into a culture that has managed to survive into the modern age, plus the lamb was great! and the chicken, and the fish!!

Chief 'Ted' and his fellow chiefs observing the welcoming ritual of friend or foe

Our hosts for the evening!

The beloved Hangi

Today, we've travelled an hour or so South to Lake Taupo, which is 1.25 times the size of Singapore. On our way we stopped off at a thermal valley and walked our way through the geysers, hot springs and steaming rocks.

This avo we've been on a yacht to view some maori carvings in the volcanic cliff surrounding the lake, next stop is a river where hopefully I'll be catching a trout supper, otherwise it's chilli.

Malborough Sounds

After kayaking we headed for the Malbourough Sounds, a picturesque area at the top of the South Island. I must admit, we didn't drive very far. We did however reach mistletoe bay a beautiful spot, secluded and romantic - apart from the 20 odd school kids camping near by! We shared a bottle of champers, under a parasol...in the rain!!!!! Despite the weather, we had a lovely evening.

Random shots of a couple of Sheep (14 sheep to every human over here)!

The following morning we headed to Picton with the hope of swimming with dolphins properly. This was the 3rd time we had attempted this, no 1 - they didn't come close, no 2 - the weather was too bad to go out in, no 3 - ???? We were the only two booked on the morning trip into the sounds, with our very own guide and skipper we expected the best. An hour later the first pod of dusky dolphins had been spotted and we headed for it. Soon we were in the water, I got a quick glimpse and then they buggered off.

Back on the boat and on the chase...2nd time in the water and I apparently had about 6 or 7 circling me. I saw two of these, one was so close I could see the markings across its body, our eyes met and we stared at eachother, it quickly turned and swam away. We were probably only close for a couple of seconds, but how often will you remember just a couple of seconds for the rest of your life? Incredible feeling. To attract the dolphins we were told to sing into our snorkels, Ed a couple of metres away was singing 'Jingle Bells', completely oblivious to the dolphins around me - they can't have been in the Christmas spirit as he did not see one until the 3rd try. Although I had my close encounter, the dolphins were not in a playful mood. It seemed as soon as we entered the water they left. Think we should get the hint!

Vineyards and the Abel Tasman National Park

After the whale watching escapades we headed back across country to the Northwestern tip of the southern island and to the Abel Tasman National Park and Golden Bay. It is pretty remote up at this end with pretty much just the one road into the park and one road out, with not a lot inbetween, however more of that in a bit.

On our trip across the South Island we first passed through Malborough. Those of you with a nose for fine wine will know that this region is home to some pretty tasty plonk, so after refreshing our palets with a mountain of cherries at a pick your own orchard we headed for a vineyard.

Although the cherries were very cheap, you did have to pick a kilo each!!! So about a week later we still have a few left over, that are a little lamb blood soaked in the bottom of our esky!

The vineyard we visited was a small boutique one, not planned, just random and we were thirsty. It was very pleasant with nice wine so we bought 3 bottles and headed for our campsite, where we were on our own in the middle of nowhere with the chilled wine, some fresh fish and an afternoon to fill.

Next morning, slightly jaded we made the rest of the trip to the national park and stopped at a tourist info shop for some advice about kayaking and the like around the park. The lady who served us happened to be the daughter of a guy that my dad knows from Seaton, used to own a shop 3 doors up from mum and dads and sailed with dad - small world.

We spent 3 days and 2 nights in the park. One day spent relaxing, one day spent walking and the final day kayaking around the coves.

On the second day (walking) it also served a special purpose - hunter gatherer. picking mussels, and to my great delight an abalone. The Japanese love these critters - paying about $50 each for them. I cooked it and ate it. It was nice, but nothing special. Glad I didn't pay $50 for one.

Also of worthy note on the walk was the display put on by about 30 dusky dolphins putting on a show with jumps, flips and somersaults out of the air. It was great to watch... whilst picking mussels!!

Then kayaking. We saw a couple of penguins, a big old seal, and a load of shags. Word of advice here. They stink, or more precisely, their shit stinks, and the projectile ability they have firing out the filth from their arses is nothing short of amazing. So steer well clear.

I could go on to tell you how we got shat on from a height by a shag, but it would be a lie, it narrowly missed us!

Whale Watching in Kaikoura

After driving some more we ended up in this sleepy seaside town where we are enjoying the huge amount of marine life avaliable for spotting. This morning we headed out for a 3 hour whale watching cruise. We managed to see two sperm whales, although the viewings were quick and far apart, it was worth it to see there magnificent tails.

Finally a whale is sighted!

Little Nick diving for food

Seals spotted whilst waiting (for a looooong time) for the whales to surface

Lots of fun and all topped off with seafood al fresco at this

lovely beachside seafood stall.

Four Wheel Driving

Ed is loving his new car, every four wheel drive track he finds, we're on it. There have been arguments, there have been moments of not being able to move and there have been moments of sheer terror - on my part rather than his. But, it is fun. After visiting this beautiful lake (we were supposed to sleep there but the sand flys scared us away) we went on a 10km track. Nail biting. The following day we embarked on a 120km one, on a personal road through the mountains. Rocky, sheer drops, mountains to climb, fords to drive through.

Fox Glacier

More driving, more free camping, more fishing (without any fish!) and we arrived in Fox Glacier. We landed ourselves another free night at Gillespies Beach, where we enjoyed the sounds of the sea from our very own cozy cabin.

Ed parking his boy toy on the beach

Sunset views from the car

The following morning we were early to rise and ready to enjoy the helicopter ride we had booked to view the glacier...thought we'd push the boat out. AGAIN!

I think I will let those pictures speak for themselves!

Mountains of Milford Sound

Leaving Henry in our wake, we bombed through the country roads to Milford Sound, a place of renowned beauty. On arrival we had two options, seeing the sound from a boat or from the windows of a tiny plane. We chose the latter. Our pilot was worryingly young and had that breathy tone of nervousness to her voice as she strapped us in. Probably her first day on the job. Thankfully she did a good job and we got to see the mountains and lakes from about 5,000 feet. Here's a little idea of what we saw...

Before take off

During flight
Waterfall views

Frozen lake

The beautiful Milford Sound